Provecho

Discovering Provecho: A Culinary Gem in Crown Point, Indiana Crown Point, Indiana, isn’t typically the first place that comes to mind when you’re hunting for a culinary adventure. Yet, tucked away in its charming square is Provecho—a restaurant that’s challenging expectations in all the right ways. After circling the block twice, a parking spot miraculously opened up right in front of the establishment. A good omen, perhaps, for the meal that awaited. Stepping inside, we kicked off the evening with their guacamole. This wasn’t your average mash of avocados. Red onion, tomato, cilantro, and jalapeño formed the familiar base, but it was the grilled pineapple, mango, and habanero that elevated it to something memorable. A perfect blend of sweet heat and tang, balanced with just the right amount of salt. The accompanying chips, thin yet sturdy, were the ideal vessel—each bite a reminder that sometimes, simplicity meets perfection. Frankly, I could have ended the meal right there and left satisfied. But curiosity—and a bit of greed—led us to the empanadas. We sampled both the ribeye and shrimp versions. The ribeye empanada was a hearty mix of poblano peppers, fingerling potatoes, queso asadero, olives, and egg, complemented by chimichurri and a three-chili guava sauce. The shrimp empanada didn’t play second fiddle, stuffed with fingerling potatoes, morita chiles, queso asadero, butternut squash, and served with an aji Amarillo aioli. These weren’t the greasy, one-note empanadas you’d find elsewhere. Each was a pocket of layered flavors, the fillings thoughtfully composed and the pastry perfectly fried without a hint of excess oil. Not everything hit the mark, though. The tamales—short-rib birria with salsa fresca, lime crema, and queso fresco—were somewhat dry. They lacked the moisture and flavor punch that a good tamale should deliver. It’s a dish that could use some reimagining to reach its full potential. Redemption came swiftly with the crispy Brussels. A medley of crispy Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, fingerling potatoes, spiced honey, cotija cheese, and garlic aioli. This dish was a revelation—the kind that makes your brain’s synapses fire off in rapid succession. The combination of textures and flavors was so harmonious that it firmly earned a spot on my hypothetical “final meal” menu. We couldn’t resist trying the coconut shrimp. The sweet pineapple and chile de arbol salsa provided a pleasant sweetness that played well with the toasted coconut coating. However, the shrimp were disappointingly small—more tease than treat. It’s a dish I’d likely skip on a return visit. Dessert came in the form of a coconut crème brûlée. Described with such enticing ingredients—caramelized pineapple, guava raspberry mousse, fresh berries, toasted coconut—it sounded like the perfect ending. Unfortunately, it was served on a thick slice of pineapple with very little custard. The caramelized sugar atop was too thick and verged on burnt, overpowering the delicate flavors that should have been the star. A letdown, to say the least. Despite a few missteps, Chef Pappas is crafting something special at Provecho. The menu is ambitious, the highs are exhilarating, and the potential is undeniable. It’s the kind of place that makes you excited about the possibilities of food again. I look forward to seeing how they refine their offerings in the future. So, if you find yourself in Crown Point and don’t mind the parking roulette, Provecho is worth the visit. After all, great food often requires a little pursuit.